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Thursday, October 3, 2024

Hits and Misses: London Trend Week Spring 2025


Two down, two to go and that’s a wrap on London Trend Week. Working from September 12-17, this LFW Spring 2025 season was a whole amalgamation of latest and established expertise. To conclude the fortieth anniversary of London Trend Week, The British Trend Council granted us a jam-packed schedule to spherical out the festivities.

Report: London Trend Week Spring 2025

This London Trend Week was a particular one for Harris Reed who was on the official schedule for the very first time. The younger expertise (and present artistic director of Nina Ricci) offered within the Tanks of the Tate Trendy and despatched OTT dramatic silhouettes down the catwalk and emphasised on upcycling supplies. With the 2024 Queen Elizabeth II Award to his identify, S.S. Daley debuted his first womenswear assortment – full with Harry Types sitting perched entrance tow. Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons of Chopova Lowena returned to the LFW schedule this season, with a group impressed by American heroines (like Calamity Jane).

After three seasons displaying with Trend East, Standing Floor spearheaded by Michael Stewart flew solo at London Trend Week. The younger Irish designer’s present boasted diaphanous drapes, molded leather-based coats and Stewart’s signature beaded column attire. All the time a LFW spotlight, it was all within the particulars at Richard Quinn. Every of the 45 appears to be like embodied Quinn’s imaginative and prescient of class by way of masterful form, quantity, and fabrication. Following a two-season hiatus, Nensi Dojaka returned to the London Trend Week schedule along with her signature cut-out attire – and a Calvin Klein collaboration.

Slick suiting contrasted with floating feathered attire and exaggerated bows at Roksanda. JW Anderson credited the girliness of his sister as inspiration for his spring assortment. An array of variations of the mini costume was despatched down the catwalk, staged inside London’s Previous Billingsgate market. The celebrated designer’s assortment was stuffed with sculptural silhouettes, interwoven panels of material and exaggerated ballet skirts. Daniel Lee at Burberry rounded out the London Trend Week festivities this season, opting to remix the model’s heritage for the season forward.

Right here’s the Hits & Misses of London Trend Week Spring 2025:

MISS | JW Anderson

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Loewe leftovers.” [rowjellies]

“Properly he was clearly busy with different initiatives (reminiscent of costumes for “Queer”) than his personal label, so now we have a parade of mediocre, low-quality trash that he offered as a result of he actually needed to.” [Olaffo]

“God is aware of I get pleasure from his menswear at each JWA and Loewe, however I’ll NEVER like his womenswear. Ever. It all the time looks like a compelled train for him, with near no perspective for every assortment. Scrolling by means of these appears to be like I can’t assist however surprise who’s she meant to be. The reply is nobody, as a result of there’s no person right here. It’s a bunch of material positioned on fashions handled as mannequins.” [Thefrenchy]

See all of the appears to be like from the JW Anderson Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | Roksanda

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“That is fairly fantastic. Just a little too indulgent in place however I really like the fantastical high quality that she’s so good at doing.” [GoldenPetals]

“Liked the previous couple of appears to be like — the blue, pink, and orange robes.” [rowjellies]

“A standout from London Trend Week, and not using a shadow of a doubt. A powerful assortment, from begin to end. I simply knew from the opening and re-assessment that I’d’ve be disillusioned… and I wasn’t.” [vogue28]

See all of the appears to be like from the Roksanda Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Harris Reed

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Numerous showmanship however no actual workmanship.” [Constructionist]

“It’s actually embarrassing. The delusion this particular person has is insane. The present is so cringe. The fashions aimlessly and cluelessly flapping their arms round like CoUTuRe. Calling this novice can be placing it flippantly.” [lookatme]

“They might have at the very least lit and retouched the pictures in a means that may cover poor tailoring and sloppy end of clothes.” [avonlea002]

See all of the appears to be like from the Harris Reed Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | S.S. Daley

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“I prefer it!” [helmutnotdead]

“I’m not disliking it. Loads of influences however he managed to stay cohesive and to supply a wardrobe with many choices.” [yslforever]

“S.S. Daley is a very promising designer. Maybe an editor or stylist of outdated concepts versus designer however nonetheless nice to have a look at and I even personal his knitwear! I’ll take his present over JW Anderson any day.” [Olaffo]

See all of the appears to be like from the S.S. Daley Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Burberry

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Daniel Lee is so checked out at this level. I give him one other yr or much less.” [rowjellies]

“Final week the model’s shares had been down over 70% vs. a yr a go. Largely over issues that they can not proper the ship and this assortment did completely nothing to consolation these fears. There was one good jacket. No nice bag(s), no respectable footwear, not even pair of sun shades.” [VogueDisciple93]

“Failed once more sadly. There is no such thing as a voice. No one is aware of what Burberry desires to be. Gross sales (in accordance with that BOF article) are down about 22% this yr. That set regarded like a St Martins commencement present and the feathers on the jackets adopted by sequins and graphic scarves regarded like a complete mess.” [signifier]

See all of the appears to be like from the Burberry Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | Standing Floor

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“First related present of the season.” [helmutnotdead]

“I used to be tremendously impressed! I’ll undoubtedly be following this model/designer now. Such modernity and chicness to night dressing.” [VogueDisciple93]

“When a younger designer from LFW does a extra related Alaïa assortment than Mullier. I really like the textures he managed to create, they’re so attention-grabbing. The whole lot is so sensual and easy. For certain one identify to look at!” [IloveDiorHomme]

See all of the appears to be like from the Standing Floor Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Nensi Dojaka

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“The whole lot appears to be like unfinished… one thing is lacking in each look.” [tourbillions]

“Nensi Dojaka used to do that boudoir kinda vogue so nicely 3 years again. I assume the blandification of vogue obtained to her.” [philophile]

“I actually don’t perceive her success. The whole lot Nensi Dojaka makes appears to be like like there isn’t sufficient to it. So missing and wane.” [Cocteau Stone]

See all of the appears to be like from the Nensi Dojaka Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | Aaron Esh

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Fairly good. Trendy even, and that’s a phrase I’d by no means use to explain London vogue. It doesn’t really feel like vogue scholar vogue.” [Alquimista]

“Very cohesive.” [tourbillions]

“I like what he’s doing, primarily as a result of he and Michael Stewart’s Standing Floor are one of many uncommon youthful designers who’re designing one thing completely different. It’s stylish, attractive, fascinating and with a bit extra technical finesse to his tailoring, I might see him going very far.” [LadyJunon]

See all of the appears to be like from the Aaron Esh Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | Sharon Wauchob

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | VOGUE.COM

“So freaking fairly and delicate! That’s how I prefer it.” [philophile]

“Sharon Wauchob is the LFW QUEEN and I really like that she retains herself low profile. The whole lot about her designs is so particular and intimate! I’m in awe of these white tops, the white trousers, the primary black costume, the ditch coat. The white jacket! I would like all of it!” [WAVES]

“Lovely and female clothes, as per traditional.” [Not Plain Jane]

See all of the appears to be like from the Sharon Wauchob Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Bora Aksu

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Very… Chanel audition. Grandmas curtain couture.” [tourbillions]

“Too twee; too granny. Wants some edge to make it extra attention-grabbing.” [Not Plain Jane]

“Rather less tulle wrapping and this could’ve been excellent.” [WAVES]

See all of the appears to be like from the Bora Aksu Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Natasha Zinko

IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Oh. Expensive. Chin straps? Hospital shoe covers? Underwear attire?” [Not Plain Jane]

“The gathering itself could be very excessive avenue fashionable, which implies that’s already behind the traits, and fairly incoherent when taken as a complete.” [YohjiAddict]

See all of the appears to be like from the Natasha Zinko Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Chopova Lowena

IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“What precisely is that this speculated to be?” [Constructionist]

“If you wish to make your very personal Gaultier/Westwood creation for the Friday evening outing to the membership and you’ve got solely outdated tablecloths to concoct it from…” [YohjiAddict]

“Please… put us out of our distress. This has to finish.” [lookatme]

See all of the appears to be like from the Chopova Lowena Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Simone Rocha

IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“So sloppy.” [lookatme]

“She’s been telling the identical story for much too lengthy.” [TianCouture]

“I see numerous Molly Goddard leftover vibes this time, particularly the knits and the menswear appears to be like. The final 3 appears to be like… Shepherd Bush cloth yard sale?” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

See all of the appears to be like from the Simone Rocha Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Knwls

IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“They’d a semi-moment using off that Y2K development, however this look could be very dated now.” [TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

“Who is that this for? Membership youngsters in Berlin?” [rowjellies]

“A British model of LaQuan Smith, attempting to do early 00s Dior by Galliano. And with some Philip Treacy-inspired hats for no purpose in any respect.” [jeanclaude]

See all of the appears to be like from the Knwls Spring 2025 assortment.

HIT | Richard Quinn

IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“Can’t hate on it, because it’s all so nicely made. That is what Harris Reed thinks he’s doing.” [tourbillions]

“You could possibly by no means make me hate Richard Quinn. A sight for sore eyes throughout London Trend Week. He’s in a league of his personal on the LFW circuit. Completely love the sight of some Pierpaolo Piccioli x Valentino glamour, following an countless array of student-esque and grungy collections.” [vogue28]

See all of the appears to be like from the Richard Quinn Spring 2025 assortment.

MISS | Erdem

Here's the Hits & Misses of London Fashion Week Spring 2025:
IMAGE | SPOTLIGHT/LAUNCHMETRICS

“I can’t perceive how or why this model exists.” [lookatme]

“Erdem might have delivered a extra thrilling outcome had he performed on the masculine/female and the ‘coming-undone’ pressure a bit extra. When he’s in kind, I can see a little bit of Dries’ appeal in him and at his worst, he churns out appears to be like that could possibly be proper out of Maria Grazia’s sketchbook.” [tricotineacetat]

“Large mess.” [velvetandsilk]

See all of the appears to be like from the Erdem Spring 2025 assortment.

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