A examine printed final month within the scientific journal Cosmetics by Brazilian researchers, utilized superior Matrix-Assisted Laser Desorption Ionization Time-of-Flight Mass Spectrometry (MALDI–TOF MS) mixed with mechanical testing, discovered that whereas oils resembling coconut, avocado, and argan penetrate hair fibers, they don’t uniformly enhance mechanical properties in textured hair.
Understanding structural variations between totally different hair sorts
The researchers emphasised the significance of understanding the structural variations between hair sorts to develop simpler therapies. “Textured hair reveals a definite morphology characterised by waves and twists, creating areas of various density that have an effect on the diffusion of exterior molecules,” the examine famous.
The examine examined the penetration and affect of three vegetable oils—coconut, avocado, and argan—on each virgin and bleached textured hair. Based on the authors, MALDI–TOF evaluation revealed that oil molecules had been current within the cortical areas of bleached textured hair, with argan oil displaying the best depth.
Nevertheless, mechanical testing confirmed restricted enhancements in hair power.
“The tensile check outcomes indicated that the oils had been unable to change key parameters resembling Younger’s modulus or break stress in textured hair, suggesting that the oils didn’t deeply penetrate the hair cortex to ascertain new molecular interactions,” the examine defined.
Bleaching impacts oil absorption
The examine additionally highlighted the damaging results of bleaching on textured hair and the way it influences oil absorption. Bleaching alters the hair’s chemical composition, growing its hydrophilicity and lowering its pure lipid and protein content material.
As famous by the examine authors, this variation impacts how oils work together with the hair fibers.
Of their evaluation, the researchers discovered that bleached textured hair absorbed oils in another way than virgin hair. “In virgin hair, the cuticle-matrix advanced (CMC) stays intact, facilitating the diffusion of hydrophobic molecules like oils,” the authors said. “Nevertheless, in bleached hair, the structural modifications disrupt this pathway, resulting in irregular oil distribution and decreased mechanical safety.”
Notably, fatigue exams—designed to simulate day by day put on and tear—confirmed contrasting results between virgin and bleached hair. In virgin hair, coconut, and avocado oils improved fatigue resistance by making a lubrication impact.
Nevertheless, in bleached hair, the oils contributed to a discount in fatigue resistance.
“Fatigue testing revealed that oils had a lubricating impact on virgin hair fibers, growing their resistance to repeated stress,” the authors famous. “Conversely, in bleached hair, the presence of oils appeared to exacerbate fragility slightly than enhance it.”
Textured hair diffusion patterns differ from straight hair
A key discovering of the examine was the distinction in oil penetration patterns between textured and straight hair sorts. The researchers in contrast their outcomes with earlier information on straight hair and located that oils subtle extra uniformly in straight hair.
“Straight hair has a cortical construction that enables for extra homogeneous diffusion of exterior molecules,” the examine famous. “In distinction, textured hair’s distinctive cortical association, that includes bilateral distribution of paracortex and orthocortex areas, creates distinct diffusion zones,” which “results in uneven oil penetration and inconsistent mechanical results.”
The researchers hypothesized that the irregular distribution of oils inside textured hair contributes to the variations in how oils have an effect on hair power. The examine famous that “molecules encountering the orthocortex will diffuse extra readily, whereas these reaching the paracortex face larger resistance.”
Consequently, the authors continued, “This variation in diffusion pathways might clarify the inconsistent efficacy of oil therapies on textured hair.”
Implications for product improvement
The findings have important implications for beauty product builders. The examine underscored the necessity for texture-specific formulations that account for the distinctive structural traits of textured hair.
“Present product formulations typically depend on information from research on straight hair, which might not be relevant to textured hair,” the authors identified. “Our analysis demonstrates that hair kind performs an important position within the diffusion and efficacy of beauty therapies.”
As such, researchers continued, “personalized approaches are vital to satisfy the wants of shoppers with textured hair.”
The examine concluded by emphasizing the significance of additional analysis into hair construction and its affect on product efficiency. “Understanding the connection between hair morphology and materials diffusion is crucial for creating efficient therapies that deal with the precise challenges confronted by people with textured hair,” the authors wrote.
Supply: Cosmetics
2024, 11, 212. doi: 10.3390/cosmetics11060212
“Penetration of Vegetable Oils into Textured Hair Fibers: Integrating Molecular Matrix Assisted Laser Desorption Ioni-Zation Time-of-Flight Mass Spectroscopy (MALDI TOF/TOF MS) Evaluation with Mechanical Measurements.”
Authors: Lourenço, C.B., et al.
